Days 15, 16, and 17 of trail were spent resting and recovering. Now it’s time to tackle another big section of the TA (although not as big as the last!). We are carrying 8 days of food, knowing we could likely do the track in 7 days, but allowing space for weather. When we cross Waiau Pass, it has to be good weather conditions because the track involves a lot of tricky navigation in steep rocky sections. About 71 miles (115 km) of ‘difficult’ rated terrain stare us in the face, including 2 days of big climbs.
I suppose the only way is forward… one step at a time!
10 February, 2026 (Day 18)
It was hard to start the trail again, after our bodies got used to a comfy warm bed for 3 nights… but our hearts are ready to continue the journey.
Today is iconic – out of a movie scene!
We are dropped off at the trailhead and immediately walking right along a stunning blue lake set at the foot of the mountains.
My heart is soaring as I savor every bit of this beautiful scene! After walking a bit we stop for lunch – a wrap with salami, Parmesan cheese, sun dried tomato, and humus!
So far we had been allotting ourselves two wraps every day for lunch, but this food carry we decided to drop back to one wrap each to save on weight. We just fill that one wrap as full as we can!
After lunch we weave around the side of the lake. Instead of staying at the hut located right along the trail- we opt to cross a creek and follow a meadow path over to the West side of the lake where there is a less crowded hut waiting for us!
Safe and sound at the hut, we set to our daily tasks of filtering water, making dinner, and washing up.
A light, nice, and easy day to start this section is just what we needed!
11 February, 2026 (Day 19)
We woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the lake.
After some oats and peanut butter, we set to the trail. The walk was gentle and beautiful, following the river with the mountains looming in the background.
After lunch we began to climb into the mountains.
We are surrounded by waterfalls!!! It’s so stunning!
After a good afternoon of climbing, we arrive Upper Travers Hut. Pitching our tent, we settle in for the night set in a beautiful valley with mountains all around!
12 February, 2026 (Day 20)
The day began with the most beautiful climb I think I’ve ever done in my life. I really felt like I was in Narnia! After the climb we began the much less pleasant descent… STEEP.
After a steep decent down we pitched the tent by a perfect river camping spot!
You can’t have perfect weather forever… and we fell asleep to rain beginning to fall on the tent.
It’s time for some rest before we go over the Waiua Pass – it’s said to be the toughest bit of this section!
13 February, 2026 (Day 21)
Today we only have about a 4 hour walk ahead of us. Sleeping in seems reasonable.
We held off as long as we could, but it’s inevitable… we have to venture into the rain.
When we arrive at the hut we are greeted by over 20 people in the hut! It’s crowded! The rain has stopped everyone from being able to go over Waiua pass and we’re all packed in the hut like sardines.
Sitting around the fire in the hut, letting our clothes dry out, we make friends with other hikers and prepare for whatever lies ahead tomorrow.
This pass has ALOT of climbing, but even worse- it has ALOT of steep descent.
Let’s hope our legs hold up!
14 February, 2026 (Day 22)
Happy Valentine’s Day💕
This is our second Valentine’s Day together and we both feel so blessed to have found someone whose ideal Valentine’s Day involves backpacking across a mountain pass.
When we woke up this morning, I almost felt like I was in a race. Have you ever competed in a race? The atmosphere is thick with anticipation as tons of backpackers plan to flood over the pass on the only nice weather window for a while. Tomorrow it’s supposed to snow, leaving the pass too sketchy to cross. I had a feeling of anticipation like I usually have before a race as I wonder how I’ll do crossing the pass today.
I wrote before about my feet giving me some issues – well last time we were in town we picked up some new in-soles! My feet have been feeling so much better and today I feel like I can fly!
I think my “backpacker” legs are finally starting to engage. My pack feels light- almost like part of my body, and my feet feel ready to run!
In the morning the weather was still dreary, but as we begin climbing over the pass it clears.
The first hour we are walking by two clear mountain lakes. They are spring fed and crystal clear. You actually can’t even touch them because DOC (Department of Conservation) is trying to keep them from getting ‘snow algae’ which is present in some of the neighboring lakes.
Mid-morning the path looks like it disappears… where does it go?
Then Jeremy spots an orange marker post up what looks like a slip. All I see is a bunch of rock that looks like a wash out, but I suppose we have to climb it!
We made it to the top of the pass and we both feel strong! It’s our first big climb that wasn’t a complete drag! We take time for lunch surrounded by a beautiful Mountain View!
After our summit of the Waiau Pass and a delicious couscous – tuna wrap, we begin a steep decent.
I’m thrilled with my rate of descent on this steep mountain track. I’m learning my footing with the pack on and it feels natural now! As we descend we come across a mountain stream to get water from.
There’s not a lot we can do on trail to ‘commemorate’ Valentine’s Day- but we did save a treat just for today to celebrate our love and crossing the pass! A backpacker smoothie!
The trail is meant to be flat-ish and easy going. But we are in for a surprise… there is barely a path! It’s all washed out river bed rock scrambling.
Finally after a long day of walking, we find the perfect spot to pitch our tent. There is a grassy field with a flat spot and a perfect place to make a small fire ring. With smoke from the fire wafting up and over the field and sound of the river flowing by us, there couldn’t have been a more perfect ending to the day.
Ok one thing could have made it more perfect! NO SANDFLIES.
Immediately when we stopped we were assaulted by a whole horde of sandflies. These pesky little creatures will suck your blood and leave you with endlessly itchy bites. Even though it’s not cold we throw on every layer we have to keep them from getting to our skin. Eventually as it gets dark, they disappear to go to bed and rest for tomorrow’s attack.
As the sun sets and the clouds over the mountains turn brilliant shades of pink, I really don’t know how I could be more blessed. I’m sitting next to the man I love, by a warm fire, in a mountain landscape that takes my breath away. Now that’s my ideal way to celebrate Valentine’s Day!
Most of all, I’m happy we made it over the pass in such beautiful weather and I’m so proud of how well my body handled today. I’m getting stronger and the days are becoming more and more fun!
I fall asleep with a happy and light heart, knowing that today has been my favorite day on trail yet!
15 February, 2026 (Day 23)
Sabbath.
Today was a rather ‘boring’ day as far as adventuring goes. Yesterday we made it further than we thought we would, and so today choose to take a complete ‘0’ day. Every 7th day we try either take a day off completely, of have a shorter walking day.
Today was spent curled up in the tent sleeping, reading, writing, and reflecting on what we just saw.
Outside the wind is raging as a cold front is coming through, so we are quite happy to not have to venture far from our warm sleeping bag! Later in the day it is rainy and cold.
As I reflect on what this walk has done to me so far, I can’t help but feel like I’ve always been here.
My life before this walk seems so distant and I can hardly remember what life felt like before we spent all our time hiking in beautiful places.
My life after this feels like a blur, like I don’t know exactly what will happen or who I’ll be when it all comes to an end.
For now, I continue to put my faith in the creator of all the beauty surrounding me and just keep walking out the journey- letting Him shape me however he chooses.
16 February, 2026 (Day 24)
Quick!!! Open the tent!
Blahhhhh. Oh no- that was last night’ dinner… and now it’s on the ground outside our tent.
I think we undercooked our pasta dinner and now I’m upchucking my guts.
And it’s cold. And it’s raining…
Trail has its ups and downs… today feels down.
We have 18 miles to walk in a valley where the wind is gusting in our face, it’s raining sideways, and we have to cross streams multiple times.
I didn’t get any photos from today because my hands were too numb to open to my pockets for anything but more granola bars.
We didn’t stop the entire 7.5 hours it took to get to Anne Hut for anything other than the occasional snack/ water break.
Even in the middle of a harder day, there was beauty! The valley was filled with wildflowers and about half way through our day, the sun found its way through the clouds in a small circle all around us!
I was so grateful to dry off a bit and the feeling returned to my fingers.
As we neared Anne Hut, I’ve never been so excited to see smoke rising!
A warm, dry hut and a good nights sleep should refresh our spirits!
17 February, 2026 (Day 25)
A real coffee anyone???
Our new best friend, Ronni, offered us a delicious coffee this morning.
Not instant. REAL COFFEE!
We spent the morning sitting by the hut window, sipping coffee, looking out over the mountains from our warm, dry vantage point.
When we couldn’t justify sitting inside any longer, we headed out for our last full day on this section.
We followed the river most of the day, and decided to go off trail about 1 km to a cute hut we heard was fully stocked with firewood.
18 February, 2026
Town day!!!!
This morning we walked with an extra pep in our step as we nearly ran to get to the trailhead.
With NZ pies and a cappuccino in sight, we felt extremely motivated.
We hitchhiked from the trailhead into Hanmer Springs- well known for its hot pools.
All snuggled up in the hostel, with 2 pies each in our stomach, we are satisfied and happy!!!
Now we are heading off to soak our sore muscles in the hot springs!
The next 2 days will be spent soaking, sleeping, and eating!!!
This past section has been our favorite so far with stunning views! My foot has been feeling a lot better and we have both been getting stronger with every step!
Thanks for reading about our adventures over the Waiau Pass!!! We will see you next in Arthur’s Pass 🏔️
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